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Which type of breaker occurs on gently sloping beaches and has a tumbling crest?

  1. Surging breaker

  2. Plunging breaker

  3. Spilling breaker

  4. Steep breaker

The correct answer is: Spilling breaker

The correct choice is the spilling breaker because this type of wave occurs on gently sloping beaches where the wave energy gradually releases over the length of its rise. As the wave approaches the shore, it starts to grow taller and eventually topples over, creating a tumbling motion at the crest. This happens because the base of the wave encounters shallower water and slows down, while the top continues to move forward, resulting in the crest spilling or cascading down the front of the wave rather than crashing down like in other types of breakers. In contrast, surging breakers occur on steep beaches and produce very little tumbling as they surge forward with great force. Plunging breakers, often noted for their steep crest that falls vertically, typically form on steeper beaches and can be quite powerful. Steep breakers, while mentioned in the context, are generally a broad term that doesn’t specifically refer to the tumbling motion associated with spilling breakers. This nuanced understanding of wave behavior is crucial when considering diving and safety conditions on different types of beaches.